Hygiene Without Infrastructure

# Localization note -- hygiene principles are universal. Water treatment standards and product
# availability vary by region.
# Agent must follow these rules when working with non-US users:
- Water purification techniques (boiling, filtration, chemical treatment) are universal.
- Bleach concentration varies by country:
  US: household bleach is typically 6-8.25% sodium hypochlorite
  UK/EU: household bleach concentration varies (check label for % sodium hypochlorite)
  Adjust dosing accordingly: the target is 8 drops (0.5 mL) per gallon for 6% bleach.
  For higher concentrations, use fewer drops. For lower, use more.
  Formula: (6 / actual_percentage) x 8 drops per gallon of clear water
- Water quality standards:
  US: EPA drinking water standards
  UK: Drinking Water Inspectorate (DWI)
  EU: EU Drinking Water Directive 2020/2184
  WHO: Guidelines for Drinking-water Quality (universal baseline)
- Product availability:
  Sawyer/LifeStraw filters: widely available globally via Amazon
  Berkey filters: primarily US/UK/AU, alternatives exist elsewhere
  SteriPEN: available globally, check voltage for charging
- Waste disposal regulations vary by jurisdiction.
  Agent must advise checking local rules for human waste disposal,
  greywater use, and emergency sanitation during declared emergencies.
- Emergency services: US 911, UK 999, AU 000, EU 112.

WATER PURIFICATION METHODS (in order of reliability):

METHOD 1: BOILING -- THE GOLD STANDARD
-> Bring water to a rolling boil for 1 minute
-> At elevations above 6,500 feet: boil for 3 minutes
-> Let cool naturally (don't add ice unless the ice was made from
   safe water)
-> Works against: bacteria, viruses, protozoa, parasites -- everything
-> Requires: heat source and a pot
-> Downside: uses fuel, takes time, doesn't improve taste or remove
   chemicals

METHOD 2: FILTRATION
-> Gravity filters (Sawyer, Berkey): $30-100, no pumping required,
   filters thousands of gallons
   -> Removes: bacteria and protozoa
   -> Does NOT remove viruses (adequate for most US/EU water sources;
      in areas where viral contamination is likely, follow filtration
      with chemical or UV treatment)
-> Pump filters (MSR, Katadyn): $50-100, faster than gravity, good
   for small groups
-> Straw filters (LifeStraw): $15-25, drink directly or attach to
   a bottle, good for personal emergency use
-> All filters have a lifespan. Check and replace as specified.
-> Pre-filter visibly cloudy water through a cloth or coffee filter
   first to extend the main filter's life

METHOD 3: CHEMICAL TREATMENT
-> Household bleach (plain unscented, 6-8.25% sodium hypochlorite):
   -> Clear water: 8 drops (1/2 mL) per gallon
   -> Cloudy water: 16 drops (1 mL) per gallon
   -> Stir, wait 30 minutes. Should smell slightly of chlorine.
   -> If no chlorine smell after 30 min, repeat and wait 15 more min.
   -> DO NOT use scented bleach, color-safe bleach, or bleach with
      added cleaners
-> Water purification tablets (Aquatabs, Potable Aqua): $8-15 for 50+
   -> Follow package directions exactly
   -> Effective against bacteria, viruses, and most protozoa
   -> 30-minute wait time typically
-> Iodine: effective but not recommended for pregnant women, people
   with thyroid conditions, or for use beyond a few weeks

METHOD 4: UV TREATMENT
-> SteriPEN ($50-80): 90 seconds per liter, kills bacteria, viruses,
   and protozoa
-> Requires batteries or USB charging
-> Water must be clear (UV can't penetrate turbid water)
-> Pre-filter cloudy water before UV treatment
-> Good backup method, battery-dependent

WATER STORAGE:
-> Store in clean, food-grade containers with tight lids
-> 1 gallon per person per day (drinking + basic cooking)
-> 3-day minimum supply recommended
-> Commercially bottled water is already treated and sealed
-> Stored tap water: rotate every 6 months, or treat with 1/8 tsp
   bleach per gallon for longer storage

EMERGENCY TOILET OPTIONS:

OPTION 1: BUCKET TOILET ($0-20)
-> Materials: 5-gallon bucket, heavy-duty trash bags (contractor grade),
   cat litter OR sawdust OR wood ash for odor absorption
-> Setup:
   1. Line the bucket with a heavy-duty trash bag
   2. After each use, cover waste with a handful of cat litter or sawdust
   3. When the bag is half full (DO NOT overfill -- it gets heavy),
      tie it securely and double-bag it
   4. Dispose in regular trash (check local emergency rules -- during
      declared emergencies, many jurisdictions allow this)
   5. Replace the bag and repeat
-> Commercial option: Luggable Loo ($20) -- a toilet seat that snaps
   onto a 5-gallon bucket. More comfortable, same principle.
-> Lime powder: for extended situations, agricultural lime sprinkled
   on waste controls odor and helps decomposition. Available at
   garden centers, $5-10 for a large bag.

OPTION 2: EXISTING TOILET (no water service)
-> Your toilet still works mechanically without running water
-> Pour 1-2 gallons of ANY water directly into the bowl (not the tank)
   quickly -- the force of the pour triggers the siphon flush
-> Sources: pool water, rain barrels, bathtub stored water, creek water
-> This only works if the sewer line is intact. If the sewer has
   backed up, DO NOT flush -- you'll make it worse.

OPTION 3: TRENCH LATRINE (extended outdoor/rural situations)
-> Dig a trench 6-8 inches wide, 1 foot deep, at least 200 feet from
   any water source and downhill from your camp/living area
-> After each use, cover with a few inches of dirt
-> When the trench is within 4 inches of ground level, fill it in
   completely and dig a new one
-> Wash hands after every use (see handwashing section below)

GREYWATER vs BLACKWATER:
-> Greywater: water from sinks, showers, laundry
   -> Can be used to water non-edible plants (trees, shrubs, lawn)
   -> Do NOT use on food gardens (soap and bacteria)
   -> Dispose of greywater away from water sources
-> Blackwater: water from toilets, anything with human waste
   -> Must be contained and disposed of properly
   -> Never dump on the ground, never near water sources
   -> In extended situations: the bucket-and-bag method above

HANDWASHING WITHOUT PLUMBING:

PRIORITY ORDER:
1. Soap + ANY water (even non-potable) = best option
2. Hand sanitizer (60%+ alcohol) = good when water is unavailable
3. Nothing = unacceptable risk for disease transmission

Wash hands: after using the toilet, before preparing or eating food,
after handling waste, after caring for a sick person, after blowing
your nose or coughing.

THE TWO-BUCKET METHOD:
-> Bucket 1: soapy water (any water + dish soap or bar soap)
-> Bucket 2: rinse water (any water, preferably cleaner)
-> Wet hands in bucket 1, scrub 20 seconds, rinse in bucket 2
-> Change water in both buckets at least daily
-> Hang a towel nearby (designated hand towel only)

TIPPY-TAP ($0 -- the field standard):
-> Materials: a jug with a cap, string or rope, a stick, a nail
-> Poke a small hole in the cap of the jug
-> Hang the jug from a tree branch or frame with a foot-operated lever
   (a stick tied to the jug handle, stepped on to tip the jug)
-> Tip: the water flows from the hole in the cap when the jug tips
-> Hands-free operation = less cross-contamination
-> Hang a bar of soap on a string next to it
-> Search "tippy tap" for simple construction diagrams

HAND SANITIZER:
-> Must be 60%+ alcohol to be effective
-> Apply enough to cover all surfaces of both hands
-> Rub until dry (20+ seconds)
-> Does NOT work well on visibly dirty or greasy hands -- wash first
   if possible
-> Does NOT kill some common pathogens (norovirus, C. diff, Crypto)
   -- soap and water is always superior
-> Stock sanitizer in your emergency kit, but don't rely on it as
   your only option

FOOD SAFETY WITHOUT REFRIGERATION:

THE 2-HOUR / 4-HOUR RULE:
-> Perishable food at room temperature (above 40F/4C):
   -> Under 2 hours: still safe, refrigerate if possible
   -> 2-4 hours: use immediately, don't try to save it
   -> Over 4 hours: throw it out. No exceptions.
-> These times are cumulative. 1 hour on the counter + 2 hours in
   a cooler that's warmed up = 3 hours.

FOODS THAT LAST WITHOUT REFRIGERATION:
-> Peanut butter (months)
-> Canned goods (years -- but eat promptly once opened)
-> Hard cheeses (waxed/sealed -- weeks, cut off any mold)
-> Cured/dried meats (jerky, salami -- weeks if sealed)
-> Root vegetables (potatoes, carrots, onions -- weeks in cool dark place)
-> Apples (weeks in cool conditions)
-> Bread (3-5 days, longer as toast)
-> Rice, pasta, oats, dried beans (years if dry)
-> Honey (indefinite -- literally thousands of years)
-> Salt, sugar, spices (indefinite)

FOODS THAT SPOIL FAST:
-> Raw meat and poultry (hours)
-> Dairy milk (hours)
-> Soft cheeses (hours)
-> Cut fruit and vegetables (hours)
-> Cooked leftovers (hours)
-> Eggs (weeks if unrefrigerated and unwashed, but US store-bought
   eggs have been washed and must be refrigerated)

WHAT ABOUT YOUR FRIDGE/FREEZER DURING AN OUTAGE?
-> Fridge: stays safe for about 4 hours if you keep the door closed
-> Full freezer: stays safe for about 48 hours
-> Half-full freezer: about 24 hours
-> Don't open the door to check -- you're letting the cold out
-> If food has thawed but still has ice crystals, it can be refrozen
-> If food has thawed completely and been above 40F for over 2 hours,
   throw it out
-> When in doubt, throw it out. Food poisoning without medical access
   can be life-threatening.

COOKING KILLS MOST BACTERIA (but not all toxins):
-> Cook food to proper internal temperatures (165F/74C for poultry,
   160F/71C for ground meat, 145F/63C for whole cuts)
-> Cooking does NOT make spoiled food safe. Bacterial toxins survive
   cooking. If it smells off, looks off, or has been at room temp
   too long, cooking won't save it.

LAUNDRY WITHOUT A MACHINE:

BUCKET WASH METHOD:
1. Fill a 5-gallon bucket halfway with water (any temperature works,
   warm is faster)
2. Add a small amount of detergent or soap (a tablespoon is enough)
3. Add clothes -- don't overstuff. Wash in small loads.
4. Agitate: use a clean toilet plunger (dedicated to laundry) or just
   push and knead the clothes by hand for 5-10 minutes
5. Wring each item thoroughly
6. Rinse in clean water (a second bucket), wring again
7. Hang to dry -- sunlight helps disinfect and bleach whites

PRIORITIES (if water is limited):
-> Underwear and socks first (closest to body, most bacteria)
-> Anything worn against skin
-> Outer layers last (can be worn longer between washes)
-> Turning clothes inside out between wearings extends usability
-> Hanging clothes in direct sunlight between wearings kills some
   bacteria even without washing

BODY HYGIENE WITH LIMITED WATER:
-> Sponge bath: 1-2 quarts of water, a washcloth, soap
   -> Wash priority areas: face, underarms, groin, feet, hands
   -> These areas harbor the most bacteria and odor
-> Baby wipes / wet wipes: $3-5/pack, effective for quick cleanup
   when water is scarce. Stock in emergency kits.
-> Dry shampoo (or cornstarch/baking soda rubbed into scalp):
   absorbs oil, extends time between hair washing
-> Oral hygiene: brush with a tiny amount of water, or use a dry
   brush if no water is available. Baking soda works as toothpaste
   in a pinch.

MENSTRUAL HYGIENE:
-> Reusable cloth pads: washable, functional for years
   -> Wash in cold water (hot water sets stains), soap, air dry
-> Menstrual cups ($25-35): reusable for years, requires less water
   to clean than pads, works without any disposable products
   -> Clean between uses: boil for 5-10 minutes if possible,
      or wash with soap and water
   -> Single best option for extended infrastructure disruption
-> If using disposable products: stock a 3-month supply in your
   emergency kit. Don't assume stores will be open.

WOUND CARE WITHOUT A CLINIC:

THE BASICS:
-> Clean water is the most important wound cleaning tool
-> Irrigation (flushing with clean water under gentle pressure) is
   more effective than dabbing or wiping
-> Use the cleanest water available: purified > boiled and cooled >
   filtered > tap > nothing
-> A clean plastic bag with a pinhole poked in the corner makes a
   field irrigation syringe

CLEANING A WOUND:
1. Wash your hands (see handwashing section)
2. Control bleeding with direct pressure if needed
3. Irrigate the wound with clean water -- flush out dirt and debris
4. Gently remove visible debris with clean tweezers
5. Do NOT use hydrogen peroxide or alcohol directly on wounds --
   they damage tissue and slow healing
6. Apply antibiotic ointment if available
7. Cover with a clean bandage. Change daily or when wet/dirty.
8. Watch for infection: increasing redness, swelling, warmth,
   red streaks, pus, fever

WHEN TO SEEK MEDICAL CARE:
-> Deep wounds that won't stop bleeding
-> Wounds with embedded debris you can't remove
-> Animal bites (infection risk is very high)
-> Signs of infection (above)
-> Any wound in a person with diabetes or immune compromise
-> Puncture wounds (especially from rusty objects -- tetanus risk)

See the minor-injury-first-response skill for detailed wound care,
burn treatment, and when to escalate.